Grading of course is subjective and everyone has
a different approach whether they choose a number grading system
like 1-10 or the “poor/good/excellent/near mint/mint” grading
system. Either system works in its own way however each is
flawed by the fact that no two people usually look at something
the same way. Also, some terms such as “near mint” and “very
good” are too ambiguous and leave too much room for
interpretation. I have always said jokingly, “everything is
near mint, just how far away is it?” In addition, use of the
1-10 number system can cause too much “grey area” in that each
flaw can equal a .1 increment. So, a car with five chips can
equate to a 9.5 when in reality it should grade at 8.5.
Another subjective matter is setting a value or
price. How do you come up with a price for which you would sell
a particular car and at what price would you purchase a car?
Unfortunately, there is no formula or precise method and because
of changes in the market, what is hot and commands high dollars
today may not be hot tomorrow and its price will fall.
Therefore, you are left to use your best judgment, research
recent sales of like items in similar condition, and most
importantly, determine what is right for you.
The one thing though everyone does agree with is
that condition is everything. When it comes to designating a
value or price, the better condition items command more while
those in lesser condition fetch far less.
So, how do you determine condition and value?
First you need a benchmark or better, a starting point for which
to grade from and that usually means to start with the best of
the best. Most collectors refer to a casting that is the best
of the best as mint condition. As a result, mint condition
deserves the highest dollar value. By definition, mint usually
means in perfect condition as when first made. Ah, ha! If you
look closely at most castings, you will find some minute flaw
such as a micro chip, slight edge wear, a slightly dulled base,
corner nick, wheel chrome loss in the center, a factory casting
or paint flaw, broken red line or even a slight scuff on the
front or back glass that would result in a less then mint
rating. Packaging is yet another factor and a bent or soft
corner, discolored blister, cracked blister, vein or crease on
the card, discoloration to the card, staple holes and punched or
un-punched blister packs are just some examples of what would
equate to less then mint packaging.
As you can see, exceedingly few examples loose
or packaged would meet the mint criteria. With that said, a
grade that is a little more forgiving would be best suited for
providing a starting point as that would be a condition much
more obtainable.
By definition pristine usually means immaculate
– so clean and neat as to look as good as new. Pristine would
fall right in between mint and excellent. Mint of course being
perfect without any flaws, pristine being immaculate where there
might be one or two very insignificant flaws, then excellent
being very high quality with only several minor flaws. As a
result, pristine is a more appropriate grade to give a near
flawless casting, loose or packaged, which is as close to
perfection one could expect to find.
Determining values is also very subjective and
ultimately, buyer and seller establish the price of any one item
at the time of its purchase. So, being there is always “wiggle”
room in prices, a value range would be better rather then
designating a single price.
The following scale is a more simplified
version of its predecessors to more accurately assist you in
determining condition of both loose and packaged items including
track sets and accessories. By eliminating those few grades
that are indistinct or too close to another grade such as “near
mint” and “very good,” you will be able to grade more precisely
without having to determine things like “shows signs of play
wear” vs. “has been played with” or “only minor flaws” vs. “has
a few minor flaws.”
Mint
– Perfect, no flaws.
Pristine
– Immaculate, only a couple minor flaws.
Examples regarding loose; a minute chip, a
slightly bent axel, a very small amount of wear along a sharp
edge, a slight wisp of toning, insignificant tarnish to the
base.
Examples regarding packaged; a very slight vein
on the card, very slight shelf wear on the box, very clear
blister without dents or cracks, un-punched card, un-opened
box.
Excellent
– Very high quality with a few flaws.
Examples regarding loose; a few small chips, a
slight scuff on the roof, small area or spots of toning, edge
wear, slightly tarnished base, chrome loss or breaks in the
redline on the wheels.
Examples regarding packaged; several veins on the
card, a feathered corner or two, slight crease to the blister,
slight crush to the box, slight discoloration to the box, minor
tear, possibly played with set or just the contents removed from
the box but put back with all contents intact.
Good
– Signs of play wear.
Examples regarding loose; medium sized chips,
scratches, turned down wheels, 50% chrome loss on the wheels,
tarnished base, scuffs on the windows, noticeable toning through
out.
Examples regarding packaged; blister may be
slightly separated from the card or have a small crack, a wavy
or bent card, slight discoloration to the blister, weak or worn
box, definite signs of play time but still displayable, complete
contents with slight wear.
Fair
– Very well used.
Examples regarding loose; many chips or areas of
missing paint, many large scratches, very bent axels, little to
no chrome on wheels, heavy toning through out.
Examples regarding packaged; card is weak and
frayed, has many creases or a slight tear, the blister has
pulled away from the card or has many dents and or cracks, the
box has torn or missing flaps or shows damage to the sides,
badly damaged corners and several pieces missing from the
contents.
Poor
– Deplorable.
Examples regarding loose; majority of paint
missing, kid applied paint, very worn wheels where the edges are
chewed, severely cracked or broken windows, missing parts such
as the hood, door or even axels.
Examples regarding packaged; the card is badly
torn or a large piece is missing, many cracks and crushing to
the blister, extremely worn or severely damaged box, many
missing or damaged pieces.
It
is important to note that when determining the condition and
value of a packaged item, you must consider the condition of the
casting itself as well as the packaging and any track pieces and
accessories. There are many times when one would be in better
condition then the other, therefore, you should classify the
item overall at the lesser condition. For example, you may have
a pristine casting with a very tiny chip on the front fender but
the card has a large crease running through the center and a
crack along the seam of the blister – this would rate overall at
good even though the car is pristine.
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